What is your personal
dress style?
It is very difficult now a day to
label styles. Consequently, because with art it is only but a matter of time
before we can keep it in a box. Art genres within their current
(“contemporary”) states begin to evolve and further develop from their
preceding styles. An example of this is the infamous Monet’s 19th
century Impressionism painting style which influences the likes of Signac and
Seurat in creating an evolution-ized form of Impressionism called Pointillism
(or also known as Neo-Impressionism). However, being the psychological beings
that we are, we must still place things in categories or “boxes” in order to be
able to make sense of them for ourselves and to others. Therefore, we at TEF
have taken the liberty to label these “boxes” for our readers into three
separate categories of dress style; Classic, Prep and Street.
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*Classic dress style |
The first style of dress that we
would like to begin with is the most formal of the three; Classic. Classic is
exactly what we think of at the sound of the word; classical, elegant, super-formal, old style, “old skool”,
Beethoven, Mozart and lastly “fad-proof”. For the many of us who have not been to
etiquette school, classic dress style is what we would consider job interview
apparel or the uniform of Corporate America. Classical dress entails a collared button
down shirt, tie, double breasted to a three or four button suit blazers with
matching pants, an optional waist coat, hard bottom laced shoes, accompanied
with an overcoat (trench coat) and fedora (not to be confused with today’s
commonly sported rendition of a fedora, the trilby
hat; a type of fedora). Prior to the Industrial Revolution, when denim was
first introduced and solely appropriate for working on the rail, all men and
boys were expected to dress in the aforementioned manner whether they were
going to work, school or not; there were no other options. At a
point in time, not as much today, even the color of the suits, shirts (the
collar’s cut) and ties were limited to certain colors in order to be considered
business appropriate. This was just the way of life. But as we discussed
previously, art styles evolve.
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*New wave fitted/European Classic |
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*Classic with waist coat |
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*New wave Classic dress style |
When people began to realize that
this kind of dress style was not comfortable for all activities of daily life is
when various options of clothing arose to accommodate theses activities and
events. Examples of these creations were: denim (overalls), (tennis) sneakers,
polo shirts, khaki pants, golf jackets, and other types of head gear aside from
the commonly used fedora or homburg hat. This classic style of dress has become somewhat
more lenient throughout the years as taking fashion risks has become more
prominent. The core rules and elements to classic dress seem to have been
slightly disregarded. Less and less men are dressing classic in the post-twentieth
century and it shows when there’s a poor acknowledgment for composition, look
or even overall fit. Once different options arose, it became easy to forget the
usual and mundane. People, nowadays, want to praise the lack of sartorial strictness
and rules. In turn, many men steer clear of a classical dress style due to
either never being taught, its perception of sartorial confinement or sporting a
suit seeming pretentious. Nonetheless, we encourage men to disregard what
others think and try it; go to a tailor/suit rental store (Menswear House or a
friend), get your suit measurements and have fun with it. There are no real rules just be
mindful of the suit's fit (go for more fitted rather than baggy look), and see if you do not feel, see or even
receive different attention. We triple dog dare you!
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*Early Hip-Hop street dress style |
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*80s-90s Rock & Roll street dress style |
The second style of dress that we
would like to ad-dress (ha!) is the most lenient with regard to styling rules which is; Street
or Urban wear. Many may argue
that Street
wear really has no rules to its style of dress. They will refute that it is not
a dress style but rather more of a lifestyle.
Albeit it a style of dress or lifestyle it does resonate a certain look; and we
would like to examine the history of this look. We had mentioned before that
within art, any given art style within that respective genre may give way to
another style within that very genre. However we would also like to add that art
does not only influence the evolution of its respective genre; It can also spill
over and evolve the style of any given art genre. A common influential relationship
between two different art genres has typically been between Music and Fashion;
and Street wear is its offspring.
Does art imitate life or vice
versa? Now it may be difficult to pinpoint which exactly influences which but
we at TEF choose to agree that during the Hippie era of the 1960-70’s is when
Street wear was born. It was a time when
people began to take a stand against War and the Corporate America mindset
(along with its style of dress). The stand that was taken was perceived as
insubordinate or “against the grain”. There was a new wave of funkadelic-LSD
infused music being released with a penchant for love, peace and anti-capitalism
and the people who patronized the music highly resembled the people making it. With
regard to the Vietnam War draft, capitalism and the Corporate World; hippies
boycotted the draft, companies they felt were a result of capitalism and the
overall dress style of Corporate America. They wore what they wanted, when they
wanted and how they wanted with little to no regard for brands and social
stigmas. They wore bell bottoms with skippies or boots, tide-dye shirts,
anti-political/war buttons, pendants and other article of clothing displaying
the peace sign (or white dove) and bandanas, ropes and floral arrangements as head gear. Men wore their hair
long and unkempt as well as their beards. Much of the music eventually fell under different
tiers of Rock & Roll and as it continued to evolve in the 80’s and 90’s so
did the look of its followers. With Rock & Roll speaking to most white
suburban and urban youths there was the birth of yet another music style. A
music style which spoke to the social plight of black urban America which
was called Hip Hop. Hip Hop also became recognized as a way of thinking; dress;
a way of life; a lifestyle.
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*Late 80s Hip-Hop street style |
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*Late 80s Hip-Hop Street style 2 |
Where there was once a clear split
between the sound of Rock & Roll and Hip Hop’s music, there really was not
a difference in their style of dress. They were both flamboyant with neon colors, animal and
geometrical prints, make-up and overall androgynous look and fit. Until the
late 80s when Rock & Roll became a bit darker in colors and Hip Hop became
more conservative with the androgyny and flashier with jewelry with the rise of cocaine-crack
era. The crack era for many marks the onset of drug-dealing, "money getting",
misogynist, machismo, “Gansta” Rap. This
is was the emergence of love for leather jump suits, baggier clothes (early 90s), name
brand sneakers and ostentatious gold chain, earrings (“doorknockers” for women)
and five finger rings. At this point there was not only a split between
the sounds of Rock and Hip Hop but now also in their looks. However, within
the last decade these two cultures have made a “figure eight” and reconnected
on some once lost common grounds. We can see the Hip Hop culture reincarnate as
it once again has become more colorful, prints influenced and androgynous with
its look and fit. It now brandishes Rock/Street-Extreme sports influenced brands
that they did not sport before such as Dr. Marten boots, Vans, DC sneakers,
Supreme, Stussy and Supra. We also see accessories we have not seen since its birth such as wallet chains, spikes, novelty bracelets,
chains and rings. In the Rock/Street-Extreme Sport culture we can see that they
are incorporating New Era fitted hats and a more adept taste for exquisite and
expensive name brand sneakers.
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*New wave Rock/extreme sport street dress style |
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*New wave Hip Hop street dress styl |
Come to think about it, one would be hard press
imitating these dress styles because there is more to them then meets the eye.
Hence, why some people may criticize this article for joining the two
lifestyles together to begin with. And that is okay because we feel that although
the lifestyles maybe have derived somewhat differently the message and look
behind it is quite the same; Struggling through social plights.
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*Prep dress style |
Now for the last, but definitely
not least, of the three dress styles is what we at TEF categorize as when one combines
the previous two dress styles to form what we like to call: Preppy
or Prep. Although what we at TEF define Prep to be is not necessarily what it
means, so here goes the history lesson. The word “Preppy” comes from the word
“preparatory” as in preparatory high schools. The word Prep, however, became colloquialism commonly
used to describe the dress style of particular American high school teenagers referred to as “preps”. However, this style of dress, too, was once considered a lifestyle, a lifestyle which is used to describe the adolescents from America's
Northeastern upper-class families who attended preparatory high schools or Ivy
League colleges such as Harvard, Yale and Princeton.
The prep lifestyle, now most commonly seen in movies, is based on three extrinsic desires;
popularity amongst their scholastic peers, physical appearance and material
possessions. The look which derived in the 1950s consists of argyle and
lettermen (cardigan) sweaters, lettermen varsity jackets, chinos, madras, Oxford button down
shirts, (penny) loafers and boat shoes.
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*New wave prep |
However, growing up in an urban
community you were labeled Preppy when you were too dressed up to be called
Street yet too dressed down to be called Classic. Its one floor down from
business attire, and there seems to be plenty of occupants on this floor today.
You may see guys with fitted pants, oxford plaid shirt, vans or brogue shoes
and a cardigan or shawl sweater, denim jacket with pin buttons and a tilby hat
or possibly a New Era fitted cap. Prep is a happy medium because it can go
either way; You can be Prep leaning more towards classic or prep leaning more
towards street. It’s all a matter of one or two pieces or accessories which can
throw the look into either direction. It’s a fun and easy look because you can
play both sides of the field without getting chastised for not being from either of the other two lifestyles.
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*New wave prep (leaning towards street with the baggy jeans and boots) |
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*New wave prep (leaning towards classic with the cufflinks, tie, waist coat and handkerchief/pocket square) |
Next Article? "Style Vs Swagger".... What's the difference? Can't tell you now, gotta run, see you in two weeks :)..
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